Hi David,
The SnapAmp Opto Inputs are automatically read and updated whenever a SnapAmp is detected. You don't need to code anything.
Regards TK
| Group: DynoMotion |
Message: 9685 |
From: David Stevenson |
Date: 6/23/2014 |
| Subject: Re: SnapAmp Opto Inputs |
Thanks Tom.
On 6/23/2014 7:28 PM, Tom Kerekes
tk@... [DynoMotion] wrote:
Hi David,
The SnapAmp Opto
Inputs are automatically read and updated whenever a
SnapAmp is detected. You don't need to code anything.
Regards
TK
| Group: DynoMotion |
Message: 9695 |
From: David Stevenson |
Date: 6/25/2014 |
| Subject: Re: SnapAmp Opto Inputs |
Hi Tom,
I am still having trouble with the Opto Inputs. The plan was to use
them in conjunction with 12V 2-wire limit switches. These limit
switches have built-in amps and there is always a small voltage to
ground (~0.9V) when they are at rest and about 10V when they are
active.
Are these optos inappropriate connection points because of this
small drain and the negative logic? There is no change in the bit
status when they trigger.
Thanks for any guidance,
David.
On 6/23/2014 7:28 PM, Tom Kerekes
tk@... [DynoMotion] wrote:
Hi David,
The SnapAmp Opto
Inputs are automatically read and updated whenever a
SnapAmp is detected. You don't need to code anything.
Regards
TK
| Group: DynoMotion |
Message: 9696 |
From: Tom Kerekes |
Date: 6/25/2014 |
| Subject: Re: SnapAmp Opto Inputs |
Hi David,
I don't understand your description of a 12V 2-wire switch. You would need to supply a spec.
You can think of a SnapAmp opto input like a
+5V light bulb (it is actually an LED) that you must power to turn on. So for example if you were to take a 9V battery and connect the +terminal to the opto plus and the - terminal to the opto neg then the digital IO should indicate on.
You must have a power supply involved. Just as you can not light a light bulb with only a switch. It will work using the KFLOP +5V or +12V supply but that would defeat the opto isolation and your limit switch wiring could potentially pick up noise and induce it into KFLOP. Better to have an isolated supply.
HTH Regards TK
| Group: DynoMotion |
Message: 9697 |
From: David Stevenson |
Date: 6/25/2014 |
| Subject: Re: SnapAmp Opto Inputs |
Hi Tom,
The limit switch is from Misumi and here is a link ( I have the
EX4-F12 switches) http://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110302201260/
I am using a separate 12V power supply, but when the switches
activate, the input state doesn't change.
Thank you,
David.
On 6/25/2014 4:20 PM, Tom Kerekes
tk@... [DynoMotion] wrote:
Hi David,
I don't
understand your description of a 12V 2-wire switch.
You would need to supply a spec.
You can think of
a SnapAmp opto input like a +5V light bulb (it is
actually an LED) that you must power to turn on. So
for example if you were to take a 9V battery and
connect the +terminal to the opto plus and the -
terminal to the opto neg then the digital IO should
indicate on.
You must have a
power supply involved. Just as you can not light a
light bulb with only a switch. It will work using the
KFLOP +5V or +12V supply but that would defeat the
opto isolation and your limit switch wiring could
potentially pick up noise and induce it into KFLOP.
Better to have an isolated supply.
HTH
Regards
TK
| Group: DynoMotion |
Message: 9698 |
From: Tom Kerekes |
Date: 6/25/2014 |
| Subject: Re: SnapAmp Opto Inputs |
Hi David,
How are you wiring it? Measure the voltage from Opto Plus to Opto Neg with a voltmeter. What do you read?
Regards TK
| Group: DynoMotion |
Message: 9699 |
From: David Stevenson |
Date: 6/25/2014 |
| Subject: Re: SnapAmp Opto Inputs |
Hi Tom,
I send 12v to the limit switch and the return wire to opto pos, and
then the opto neg to 12v ground. The voltage measures 9.6v.
Thanks,
David.
On 6/25/2014 8:52 PM, Tom Kerekes
tk@... [DynoMotion] wrote:
Hi David,
How are you
wiring it? Measure the voltage from Opto Plus to Opto
Neg with a voltmeter. What do you read?
Regards
TK
| Group: DynoMotion |
Message: 9700 |
From: Tom Kerekes |
Date: 6/25/2014 |
| Subject: Re: SnapAmp Opto Inputs |
Hi David,
Hmmm. If there is 9.6V it should be activated. (Actually the SnapAmp Inputs go off when active)
I don't know. Could you be on the
wrong pins? Bad cable? is the "I'm Alive" LED on SnapAmp blinking?
Regards TK
| Group: DynoMotion |
Message: 9701 |
From: David Stevenson |
Date: 6/26/2014 |
| Subject: Re: SnapAmp Opto Inputs |
Hi Tom,
The pins, cable and lamp seem okay. I noticed that when I shut down
the power supply the inputs show active and I would have expected
the opposite.
Thank you,
David.
On 6/25/2014 9:20 PM, Tom Kerekes
tk@... [DynoMotion] wrote:
Hi David,
Hmmm. If there
is 9.6V it should be activated. (Actually the SnapAmp
Inputs go off when active)
I don't know.
Could you be on the wrong pins? Bad cable? is the
"I'm Alive" LED on SnapAmp blinking?
Regards
TK
| Group: DynoMotion |
Message: 9702 |
From: Tom Kerekes |
Date: 6/26/2014 |
| Subject: Re: SnapAmp Opto Inputs |
Hi David,
In that case it seems the input is always active. Possibly the "switch" has enough leakage to turn on the SnapAmp Opto even though it is supposedly "open".
Actually now that I re-read the spec the 2-wire devices have a rated load of 5~50mA. Maybe that means they need a minimum load of 5ma?
Check the voltage across the SnapAmp Opto when the "switch" of open. If it is 1.5V or more it may activate. I think you measured 10V in an earlier post which with a 12V supply would leave 2V across the opto. But I'm not sure exactly what you measured.
You might put a shunt resistance across the SnapAmp Opto of ~ 250ohms (1watt) or 500ohms (1/2 watt) to reduce the current that goes through the SnapAmp Opto.
Or use one of their 3 wire devices. In that case the supply current for the device should not flow through the
controlled device.
HTH Regards TK
From: "David Stevenson david.m.stevenson@... [DynoMotion]" <DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com>
To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2014 5:26 AM
Subject: Re: [DynoMotion] SnapAmp
Opto Inputs
Hi Tom,
The pins, cable and lamp seem okay. I noticed that when I shut down
the power supply the inputs show active and I would have expected
the opposite.
Thank you,
David.
On 6/25/2014 9:20 PM, Tom Kerekes
tk@... [DynoMotion] wrote:
Hi David,
Hmmm. If there
is 9.6V it should be activated. (Actually the SnapAmp
Inputs go off when active)
I don't know.
Could you be on the wrong pins? Bad cable? is the
"I'm Alive" LED on SnapAmp blinking?
Regards
TK
Hi Tom,
I send 12v to the limit switch and the
return wire to opto pos, and then the
opto neg to 12v ground. The voltage
measures 9.6v.
Thanks,
David.
On
6/25/2014 8:52 PM, Tom Kerekes tk@...
[DynoMotion] wrote:
Hi David,
How
are you wiring it? Measure
the voltage from Opto Plus to
Opto Neg with a voltmeter.
What do you read?
Regards
TK
Hi Tom,
The limit switch
is from Misumi
and here is a
link ( I have
the EX4-F12
switches) http://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110302201260/
I am using a
separate 12V
power supply,
but when the
switches
activate, the
input state
doesn't change.
Thank you,
David.
On
6/25/2014 4:20
PM, Tom
Kerekes tk@...
[DynoMotion]
wrote:
Hi
David,
I
don't
understand
your
description of
a 12V 2-wire
switch. You
would need to
supply a spec.
You
can think of a
SnapAmp opto
input like a
+5V light bulb
(it is
actually an
LED) that you
must power to
turn on. So
for example if
you were to
take a 9V
battery and
connect the
+terminal to
the opto plus
and the -
terminal to
the opto neg
then the
digital IO
should
indicate on.
You
must have a
power supply
involved.
Just as you
can not light
a light bulb
with only a
switch. It
will work
using the
KFLOP +5V or
+12V supply
but that would
defeat the
opto isolation
and your limit
switch wiring
could
potentially
pick up noise
and induce it
into KFLOP.
Better to have
an isolated
supply.
HTH
Regards
TK
Hi Tom,
I am still
having trouble
with the Opto
Inputs. The
plan was to
use them in
conjunction
with 12V
2-wire limit
switches.
These limit
switches have
built-in amps
and there is
always a small
voltage to
ground (~0.9V)
when they are
at rest and
about 10V when
they are
active.
Are these
optos
inappropriate
connection
points because
of this small
drain and the
negative
logic? There
is no change
in the bit
status when
they trigger.
Thanks for any
guidance,
David.
On
6/23/2014 7:28
PM, Tom
Kerekes tk@...
[DynoMotion]
wrote:
Hi
David,
The
SnapAmp Opto
Inputs are
automatically
read and
updated
whenever a
SnapAmp is
detected. You
don't need to
code anything.
Regards
TK
Hi Tom,
With regard to
the opto
inputs on the
SnapAmp (bits
72 to 79), do
they need to
be enabled
through
coding, or do
I just connect
them and
they're good
to go?
Thanks in
advance,
David.
|
|
| Group: DynoMotion |
Message: 9704 |
From: David Stevenson |
Date: 6/27/2014 |
| Subject: Re: SnapAmp Opto Inputs |
Hi Tom,
When the NO switch is "open" the voltage measures 1.4v across the
pos/neg opto connection. When it closes, the voltage measures 9.5v.
Would the shunt resistor be in series or parallel with the opto?
Sorry, I'm not an electronic guy.
Thanks again,
David.
On 6/26/2014 8:19 PM, Tom Kerekes
tk@... [DynoMotion] wrote:
Hi David,
In that
case it seems the input is always active. Possibly
the "switch" has enough leakage to turn on the SnapAmp
Opto even though it is supposedly "open".
Actually now that I
re-read the spec the 2-wire devices have a rated load of
5~50mA. Maybe that means they need a minimum load of
5ma?
Check the voltage
across the SnapAmp Opto when the "switch" of open. If
it is 1.5V or more it may activate. I think you
measured 10V in an earlier post which with a 12V supply
would leave 2V across the opto. But I'm not sure
exactly what you measured.
You might put a shunt
resistance across the SnapAmp Opto of ~ 250ohms (1watt)
or 500ohms (1/2 watt) to reduce the current that goes
through the SnapAmp Opto.
Or use one of their 3
wire devices. In that case the supply current for the
device should not flow through the controlled device.
HTH
Regards
TK
Hi Tom,
The pins, cable and lamp seem okay. I
noticed that when I shut down the power
supply the inputs show active and I
would have expected the opposite.
Thank you,
David.
On 6/25/2014 9:20 PM, Tom
Kerekes tk@...
[DynoMotion] wrote:
Hi
David,
Hmmm. If there is
9.6V it should be activated.
(Actually the SnapAmp Inputs
go off when active)
I don't know. Could
you be on the wrong pins? Bad
cable? is the "I'm Alive" LED
on SnapAmp blinking?
Regards
TK
Hi
Tom,
I send 12v to
the limit switch
and the return
wire to opto
pos, and then
the opto neg to
12v ground. The
voltage measures
9.6v.
Thanks,
David.
On
6/25/2014 8:52
PM, Tom
Kerekes tk@...
[DynoMotion]
wrote:
Hi
David,
How
are you wiring
it? Measure
the voltage
from Opto Plus
to Opto Neg
with a
voltmeter.
What do you
read?
Regards
TK
Hi Tom,
The limit
switch is from
Misumi and
here is a link
( I have the
EX4-F12
switches) http://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110302201260/
I am using a
separate 12V
power supply,
but when the
switches
activate, the
input state
doesn't
change.
Thank you,
David.
On
6/25/2014 4:20
PM, Tom
Kerekes tk@...
[DynoMotion]
wrote:
Hi
David,
I
don't
understand
your
description of
a 12V 2-wire
switch. You
would need to
supply a spec.
You
can think of a
SnapAmp opto
input like a
+5V light bulb
(it is
actually an
LED) that you
must power to
turn on. So
for example if
you were to
take a 9V
battery and
connect the
+terminal to
the opto plus
and the -
terminal to
the opto neg
then the
digital IO
should
indicate on.
You
must have a
power supply
involved.
Just as you
can not light
a light bulb
with only a
switch. It
will work
using the
KFLOP +5V or
+12V supply
but that would
defeat the
opto isolation
and your limit
switch wiring
could
potentially
pick up noise
and induce it
into KFLOP.
Better to have
an isolated
supply.
HTH
Regards
TK
Hi Tom,
I am still
having trouble
with the Opto
Inputs. The
plan was to
use them in
conjunction
with 12V
2-wire limit
switches.
These limit
switches have
built-in amps
and there is
always a small
voltage to
ground (~0.9V)
when they are
at rest and
about 10V when
they are
active.
Are these
optos
inappropriate
connection
points because
of this small
drain and the
negative
logic? There
is no change
in the bit
status when
they trigger.
Thanks for any
guidance,
David.
On
6/23/2014 7:28
PM, Tom
Kerekes tk@...
[DynoMotion]
wrote:
Hi
David,
The
SnapAmp Opto
Inputs are
automatically
read and
updated
whenever a
SnapAmp is
detected. You
don't need to
code anything.
Regards
(Message over 64 KB, truncated)
|
|
| Group: DynoMotion |
Message: 9714 |
From: TK |
Date: 6/27/2014 |
| Subject: Re: SnapAmp Opto Inputs |
Hi David,
The resistor would be in Parallel with the SnapAmp Opto.
Regards
TK
Hi Tom,
When the NO switch is "open" the voltage measures 1.4v across the
pos/neg opto connection. When it closes, the voltage measures 9.5v.
Would the shunt resistor be in series or parallel with the opto?
Sorry, I'm not an electronic guy.
Thanks again,
David.
On 6/26/2014 8:19 PM, Tom Kerekes
tk@... [DynoMotion] wrote:
Hi David,
In that
case it seems the input is always active. Possibly
the "switch" has enough leakage to turn on the SnapAmp
Opto even though it is supposedly "open".
Actually now that I
re-read the spec the 2-wire devices have a rated load of
5~50mA. Maybe that means they need a minimum load of
5ma?
Check the voltage
across the SnapAmp Opto when the "switch" of open. If
it is 1.5V or more it may activate. I think you
measured 10V in an earlier post which with a 12V supply
would leave 2V across the opto. But I'm not sure
exactly what you measured.
You might put a shunt
resistance across the SnapAmp Opto of ~ 250ohms (1watt)
or 500ohms (1/2 watt) to reduce the current that goes
through the SnapAmp Opto.
Or use one of their 3
wire devices. In that case the supply current for the
device should not flow through the controlled device.
HTH
Regards
TK
Hi Tom,
The pins, cable and lamp seem okay. I
noticed that when I shut down the power
supply the inputs show active and I
would have expected the opposite.
Thank you,
David.
On 6/25/2014 9:20 PM, Tom
Kerekes tk@...
[DynoMotion] wrote:
Hi
David,
Hmmm. If there is
9.6V it should be activated.
(Actually the SnapAmp Inputs
go off when active)
I don't know. Could
you be on the wrong pins? Bad
cable? is the "I'm Alive" LED
on SnapAmp blinking?
Regards
TK
Hi
Tom,
I send 12v to
the limit switch
and the return
wire to opto
pos, and then
the opto neg to
12v ground. The
voltage measures
9.6v.
Thanks,
David.
On
6/25/2014 8:52
PM, Tom
Kerekes tk@...
[DynoMotion]
wrote:
Hi
David,
How
are you wiring
it? Measure
the voltage
from Opto Plus
to Opto Neg
with a
voltmeter.
What do you
read?
Regards
TK
Hi Tom,
The limit
switch is from
Misumi and
here is a link
( I have the
EX4-F12
switches) http://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110302201260/
I am using a
separate 12V
power supply,
but when the
switches
activate, the
input state
doesn't
change.
Thank you,
David.
On
6/25/2014 4:20
PM, Tom
Kerekes tk@...
[DynoMotion]
wrote:
Hi
David,
I
don't
understand
your
description of
a 12V 2-wire
switch. You
would need to
supply a spec.
You
can think of a
SnapAmp opto
input like a
+5V light bulb
(it is
actually an
LED) that you
must power to
turn on. So
for example if
you were to
take a 9V
battery and
connect the
+terminal to
the opto plus
and the -
terminal to
the opto neg
then the
digital IO
should
indicate on.
You
must have a
power supply
involved.
Just as you
can not light
a light bulb
with only a
switch. It
will work
using the
KFLOP +5V or
+12V supply
but that would
defeat the
opto isolation
and your limit
switch wiring
could
potentially
pick up noise
and induce it
into KFLOP.
Better to have
an isolated
supply.
HTH
Regards
TK
Hi Tom,
I am still
having trouble
with the Opto
Inputs. The
plan was to
use them in
conjunction
with 12V
2-wire limit
switches.
These limit
switches have
built-in amps
and there is
always a small
voltage to
ground (~0.9V)
when they are
at rest and
about 10V when
they are
active.
Are these
optos
inappropriate
connection
points because
of this small
drain and the
negative
logic? There
is no change
in the bit
status when
they trigger.
Thanks for any
guidance,
David.
On
6/23/2014 7:28
PM, Tom
Kerekes tk@...
[DynoMotion]
wrote:
Hi
David,
The
SnapAmp Opto
Inputs are
automatically
read and
updated
whenever a
SnapAmp is
detected. You
don't need to
code anything.
Regards
TK
Hi
Tom,
With regard to
the opto
inputs on the
SnapAmp (bits
72 to 79), do
they need to
be enabled
through
coding, or do
I just connect
them and
they're good
to go?
Thanks in
advance,
David.
|
|
| Group: DynoMotion |
Message: 9718 |
From: David Stevenson |
Date: 6/27/2014 |
| Subject: Re: SnapAmp Opto Inputs |
Thanks Tom.
I'll give it a try. Previously I have used the 3 wire switches, but
the 2 wire ones looked like they would be simpler. :(
On 6/27/2014 2:03 PM, TK
tk@... [DynoMotion] wrote:
Hi David,
The resistor would be in Parallel with the SnapAmp
Opto.
Regards
TK
Hi Tom,
When the NO switch is "open" the voltage measures
1.4v across the pos/neg opto connection. When it
closes, the voltage measures 9.5v.
Would the shunt resistor be in series or parallel
with the opto? Sorry, I'm not an electronic guy.
Thanks again,
David.
On 6/26/2014 8:19 PM, Tom
Kerekes tk@...
[DynoMotion] wrote:
Hi David,
In that case it seems the input is
always active. Possibly the "switch" has
enough leakage to turn on the SnapAmp Opto
even though it is supposedly "open".
Actually now
that I re-read the spec the 2-wire devices
have a rated load of 5~50mA. Maybe that means
they need a minimum load of 5ma?
Check the
voltage across the SnapAmp Opto when the
"switch" of open. If it is 1.5V or more it
may activate. I think you measured 10V in an
earlier post which with a 12V supply would
leave 2V across the opto. But I'm not sure
exactly what you measured.
You might put
a shunt resistance across the SnapAmp Opto of
~ 250ohms (1watt) or 500ohms (1/2 watt) to
reduce the current that goes through the
SnapAmp Opto.
Or use one of
their 3 wire devices. In that case the supply
current for the device should not flow through
the controlled device.
HTH
Regards
TK
Hi Tom,
The pins, cable and lamp seem
okay. I noticed that when I
shut down the power supply the
inputs show active and I would
have expected the opposite.
Thank you,
David.
On 6/25/2014
9:20 PM, Tom Kerekes tk@...
[DynoMotion] wrote:
Hi David,
Hmmm. If
there is 9.6V it
should be
activated.
(Actually the
SnapAmp Inputs go
off when active)
I don't
know. Could you be
on the wrong pins?
Bad cable? is the
"I'm Alive" LED on
SnapAmp blinking?
Regards
TK
Hi Tom,
I send 12v to
the limit
switch and the
return wire to
opto pos, and
then the opto
neg to 12v
ground. The
voltage
measures 9.6v.
Thanks,
David.
On
6/25/2014 8:52
PM, Tom
Kerekes tk@...
[DynoMotion]
wrote:
Hi
David,
How
are you wiring
it? Measure
the voltage
from Opto Plus
to Opto Neg
with a
voltmeter.
What do you
read?
Regards
TK
Hi Tom,
The limit
switch is from
Misumi and
here is a link
( I have the
EX4-F12
switches) http://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110302201260/
I am using a
separate 12V
power supply,
but when the
switches
activate, the
input state
doesn't
change.
Thank you,
David.
On
6/25/2014 4:20
PM, Tom
Kerekes tk@...
[DynoMotion]
wrote:
Hi
David,
I
don't
understand
your
description of
a 12V 2-wire
switch. You
would need to
supply a spec.
You
can think of a
SnapAmp opto
input like a
+5V light bulb
(it is
actually an
LED) that you
must power to
turn on. So
for example if
you were to
take a 9V
battery and
connect the
+terminal to
the opto plus
and the -
terminal to
the opto neg
then the
digital IO
should
indicate on.
You
must have a
power supply
involved.
Just as you
can not light
a light bulb
with only a
switch. It
will work
using the
KFLOP +5V or
+12V supply
but that would
defeat the
opto isolation
and your limit
switch wiring
could
potentially
pick up noise
and induce it
into KFLOP.
Better to have
an isolated
supply.
HTH
Regards
TK
Hi Tom,
I am still
having trouble
with the Opto
Inputs. The
plan was to
use them in
conjunction
with 12V
2-wire limit
switches.
These limit
switches have
built-in amps
and there is
always a small
voltage to
ground (~0.9V)
when they are
at rest and
about 10V when
they are
active.
Are these
optos
inappropriate
connection
points because
of this small
drain and the
negative
logic? There
is no change
in the bit
status when
they trigger.
Thanks
(Message over 64 KB, truncated) |
|
| Group: DynoMotion |
Message: 9729 |
From: David Stevenson |
Date: 6/28/2014 |
| Subject: Re: SnapAmp Opto Inputs |
Hi Tom,
The resistors did the trick. You're amazing!
As always, thank you very much!!
David
On 6/27/2014 2:03 PM, TK
tk@... [DynoMotion] wrote:
Hi David,
The resistor would be in Parallel with the SnapAmp
Opto.
Regards
TK
Hi Tom,
When the NO switch is "open" the voltage measures
1.4v across the pos/neg opto connection. When it
closes, the voltage measures 9.5v.
Would the shunt resistor be in series or parallel
with the opto? Sorry, I'm not an electronic guy.
Thanks again,
David.
On 6/26/2014 8:19 PM, Tom
Kerekes tk@...
[DynoMotion] wrote:
Hi David,
In that case it seems the input is
always active. Possibly the "switch" has
enough leakage to turn on the SnapAmp Opto
even though it is supposedly "open".
Actually now
that I re-read the spec the 2-wire devices
have a rated load of 5~50mA. Maybe that means
they need a minimum load of 5ma?
Check the
voltage across the SnapAmp Opto when the
"switch" of open. If it is 1.5V or more it
may activate. I think you measured 10V in an
earlier post which with a 12V supply would
leave 2V across the opto. But I'm not sure
exactly what you measured.
You might put
a shunt resistance across the SnapAmp Opto of
~ 250ohms (1watt) or 500ohms (1/2 watt) to
reduce the current that goes through the
SnapAmp Opto.
Or use one of
their 3 wire devices. In that case the supply
current for the device should not flow through
the controlled device.
HTH
Regards
TK
Hi Tom,
The pins, cable and lamp seem
okay. I noticed that when I
shut down the power supply the
inputs show active and I would
have expected the opposite.
Thank you,
David.
On 6/25/2014
9:20 PM, Tom Kerekes tk@...
[DynoMotion] wrote:
Hi David,
Hmmm. If
there is 9.6V it
should be
activated.
(Actually the
SnapAmp Inputs go
off when active)
I don't
know. Could you be
on the wrong pins?
Bad cable? is the
"I'm Alive" LED on
SnapAmp blinking?
Regards
TK
Hi Tom,
I send 12v to
the limit
switch and the
return wire to
opto pos, and
then the opto
neg to 12v
ground. The
voltage
measures 9.6v.
Thanks,
David.
On
6/25/2014 8:52
PM, Tom
Kerekes tk@...
[DynoMotion]
wrote:
Hi
David,
How
are you wiring
it? Measure
the voltage
from Opto Plus
to Opto Neg
with a
voltmeter.
What do you
read?
Regards
TK
Hi Tom,
The limit
switch is from
Misumi and
here is a link
( I have the
EX4-F12
switches) http://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110302201260/
I am using a
separate 12V
power supply,
but when the
switches
activate, the
input state
doesn't
change.
Thank you,
David.
On
6/25/2014 4:20
PM, Tom
Kerekes tk@...
[DynoMotion]
wrote:
Hi
David,
I
don't
understand
your
description of
a 12V 2-wire
switch. You
would need to
supply a spec.
You
can think of a
SnapAmp opto
input like a
+5V light bulb
(it is
actually an
LED) that you
must power to
turn on. So
for example if
you were to
take a 9V
battery and
connect the
+terminal to
the opto plus
and the -
terminal to
the opto neg
then the
digital IO
should
indicate on.
You
must have a
power supply
involved.
Just as you
can not light
a light bulb
with only a
switch. It
will work
using the
KFLOP +5V or
+12V supply
but that would
defeat the
opto isolation
and your limit
switch wiring
could
potentially
pick up noise
and induce it
into KFLOP.
Better to have
an isolated
supply.
HTH
Regards
TK
Hi Tom,
I am still
having trouble
with the Opto
Inputs. The
plan was to
use them in
conjunction
with 12V
2-wire limit
switches.
These limit
switches have
built-in amps
and there is
always a small
voltage to
ground (~0.9V)
when they are
at rest and
about 10V when
they are
active.
Are these
optos
inappropriate
connection
points because
of this small
drain and the
negative
logic? There
is no change
in the bit
status when
they trigger.
Thanks for any
(Message over 64 KB, truncated) |
|
| Group: DynoMotion |
Message: 9805 |
From: David Stevenson |
Date: 7/18/2014 |
| Subject: Re: SnapAmp Opto Inputs |
Hi Tom,
I put a 1/2 watt resister in and that seemed to work, until the
machine sat with the limit switch active for a minute or so, and the
the resister started to fry. Would a different size help?
Thanks,
David.
On 6/26/2014 8:19 PM, Tom Kerekes
tk@... [DynoMotion] wrote:
Hi David,
In that
case it seems the input is always active. Possibly
the "switch" has enough leakage to turn on the SnapAmp
Opto even though it is supposedly "open".
Actually now that I
re-read the spec the 2-wire devices have a rated load of
5~50mA. Maybe that means they need a minimum load of
5ma?
Check the voltage
across the SnapAmp Opto when the "switch" of open. If
it is 1.5V or more it may activate. I think you
measured 10V in an earlier post which with a 12V supply
would leave 2V across the opto. But I'm not sure
exactly what you measured.
You might put a shunt
resistance across the SnapAmp Opto of ~ 250ohms (1watt)
or 500ohms (1/2 watt) to reduce the current that goes
through the SnapAmp Opto.
Or use one of their 3
wire devices. In that case the supply current for the
device should not flow through the controlled device.
HTH
Regards
TK
Hi Tom,
The pins, cable and lamp seem okay. I
noticed that when I shut down the power
supply the inputs show active and I
would have expected the opposite.
Thank you,
David.
On 6/25/2014 9:20 PM, Tom
Kerekes tk@...
[DynoMotion] wrote:
Hi
David,
Hmmm. If there is
9.6V it should be activated.
(Actually the SnapAmp Inputs
go off when active)
I don't know. Could
you be on the wrong pins? Bad
cable? is the "I'm Alive" LED
on SnapAmp blinking?
Regards
TK
Hi
Tom,
I send 12v to
the limit switch
and the return
wire to opto
pos, and then
the opto neg to
12v ground. The
voltage measures
9.6v.
Thanks,
David.
On
6/25/2014 8:52
PM, Tom
Kerekes tk@...
[DynoMotion]
wrote:
Hi
David,
How
are you wiring
it? Measure
the voltage
from Opto Plus
to Opto Neg
with a
voltmeter.
What do you
read?
Regards
TK
Hi Tom,
The limit
switch is from
Misumi and
here is a link
( I have the
EX4-F12
switches) http://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110302201260/
I am using a
separate 12V
power supply,
but when the
switches
activate, the
input state
doesn't
change.
Thank you,
David.
On
6/25/2014 4:20
PM, Tom
Kerekes tk@...
[DynoMotion]
wrote:
Hi
David,
I
don't
understand
your
description of
a 12V 2-wire
switch. You
would need to
supply a spec.
You
can think of a
SnapAmp opto
input like a
+5V light bulb
(it is
actually an
LED) that you
must power to
turn on. So
for example if
you were to
take a 9V
battery and
connect the
+terminal to
the opto plus
and the -
terminal to
the opto neg
then the
digital IO
should
indicate on.
You
must have a
power supply
involved.
Just as you
can not light
a light bulb
with only a
switch. It
will work
using the
KFLOP +5V or
+12V supply
but that would
defeat the
opto isolation
and your limit
switch wiring
could
potentially
pick up noise
and induce it
into KFLOP.
Better to have
an isolated
supply.
HTH
Regards
TK
Hi Tom,
I am still
having trouble
with the Opto
Inputs. The
plan was to
use them in
conjunction
with 12V
2-wire limit
switches.
These limit
switches have
built-in amps
and there is
always a small
voltage to
ground (~0.9V)
when they are
at rest and
about 10V when
they are
active.
Are these
optos
inappropriate
connection
points because
of this small
drain and the
negative
logic? There
is no change
in the bit
status when
they trigger.
Thanks for any
guidance,
David.
On
6/23/2014 7:28
PM, Tom
Kerekes tk@...
[DynoMotion]
wrote:
Hi
David,
The
SnapAmp Opto
Inputs are
automatically
read and
updated
whenever a
SnapAmp is
detected. You
don't need to
code anything.
Regards
TK
(Message over 64 KB, truncated) |
|
| Group: DynoMotion |
Message: 9806 |
From: Tom Kerekes |
Date: 7/18/2014 |
| Subject: Re: SnapAmp Opto Inputs |
Hi David,
Higher resistance would reduce the dissipated power but provide less shunting. Use the highest value that reliably allows the opto to turn off.
Power = V^2 / R
for 12V and 500 ohms the power would be:
12 x 12 / 500 = 0.28W
Regards TK
| Group: DynoMotion |
Message: 9807 |
From: David Stevenson |
Date: 7/18/2014 |
| Subject: Re: SnapAmp Opto Inputs |
Thanks Tom,
Okay, now if you electronic guys would look away for a moment...
would 2 resistors in parallel double the value?
Best regards,
David.
On 7/18/2014 2:30 PM, Tom Kerekes
tk@... [DynoMotion] wrote:
Hi David,
Higher resistance
would reduce the dissipated power but provide less
shunting. Use the highest value that reliably allows
the opto to turn off.
Power = V^2 / R
for 12V and 500
ohms the power would be:
12 x 12 / 500 =
0.28W
Regards
TK
| Group: DynoMotion |
Message: 9811 |
From: Russ Larson |
Date: 7/19/2014 |
| Subject: Re: SnapAmp Opto Inputs |
No they need to be in Series, end to end to double the resistance. Russ Larson From: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2014 3:02 PM
To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DynoMotion] SnapAmp Opto Inputs Thanks Tom,
Okay, now if you electronic guys would look away for a moment... would 2 resistors in parallel double the value?
Best regards,
David. On 7/18/2014 2:30 PM, Tom Kerekes tk@... [DynoMotion] wrote: Higher resistance would reduce the dissipated power but provide less shunting. Use the highest value that reliably allows the opto to turn off. for 12V and 500 ohms the power would be: Hi Tom,
I put a 1/2 watt resister in and that seemed to work, until the machine sat with the limit switch active for a minute or so, and the the resister started to fry. Would a different size help?
Thanks,
David. On 6/26/2014 8:19 PM, Tom Kerekes tk@... [DynoMotion] wrote: In that case it seems the input is always active. Possibly the "switch" has enough leakage to turn on the SnapAmp Opto even though it is supposedly "open". Actually now that I re-read the spec the 2-wire devices have a rated load of 5~50mA. Maybe that means they need a minimum load of 5ma? Check the voltage across the SnapAmp Opto when the "switch" of open. If it is 1.5V or more it may activate. I think you measured 10V in an earlier post which with a 12V supply would leave 2V across the opto. But I'm not sure exactly what you measured. You might put a shunt resistance across the SnapAmp Opto of ~ 250ohms (1watt) or 500ohms (1/2 watt) to reduce the current that goes through the SnapAmp Opto. Or use one of their 3 wire devices. In that case the supply current for the device should not flow through the controlled device. Hi Tom,
The pins, cable and lamp seem okay. I noticed that when I shut down the power supply the inputs show active and I would have expected the opposite.
Thank you,
David. On 6/25/2014 9:20 PM, Tom Kerekes tk@... [DynoMotion] wrote: Hmmm. If there is 9.6V it should be activated. (Actually the SnapAmp Inputs go off when active) I don't know. Could you be on the wrong pins? Bad cable? is the "I'm Alive" LED on SnapAmp blinking? Hi Tom,
I send 12v to the limit switch and the return wire to opto pos, and then the opto neg to 12v ground. The voltage measures 9.6v.
Thanks,
David. On 6/25/2014 8:52 PM, Tom Kerekes tk@... [DynoMotion] wrote: How are you wiring it? Measure the voltage from Opto Plus to Opto Neg with a voltmeter. What do you read? Hi Tom,
The limit switch is from Misumi and here is a link ( I have the EX4-F12 switches) http://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110302201260/
I am using a separate 12V power supply, but when the switches activate, the input state doesn't change.
Thank you,
David. On 6/25/2014 4:20 PM, Tom Kerekes tk@... [DynoMotion] wrote: I don't understand your description of a 12V 2-wire switch. You would need to supply a spec. You can think of a SnapAmp opto input like a +5V light bulb (it is actually an LED) that you must power to turn on. So for example if you were to take a 9V battery and connect the +terminal to the opto plus and the - terminal to the opto neg then the digital IO should indicate on. You must have a power supply involved. Just as you can not light a light bulb with only a switch. It will work using the KFLOP +5V or +12V supply but that would defeat the opto isolation and your limit switch wiring could potentially pick up noise and induce it into KFLOP. Better to have an isolated supply. Hi Tom,
I am still having trouble with the Opto Inputs. The plan was to use them in conjunction with 12V 2-wire limit switches. These limit switches have built-in amps and there is always a small voltage to ground (~0.9V) when they are at rest and about 10V when they are active.
Are these optos inappropriate connection points because of this small drain and the negative logic? There is no change in the bit status when they trigger.
Thanks for any guidance,
David. On 6/23/2014 7:28 PM, Tom Kerekes tk@... [DynoMotion] wrote: The SnapAmp Opto Inputs are automatically read and updated whenever a SnapAmp is detected. You don't need to code anything. Hi Tom,
With regard to the opto inputs on the SnapAmp (bits 72 to 79), do they need to be enabled through coding, or do I just connect them and they're good to go?
Thanks in advance,
David.
|
|
| Group: DynoMotion |
Message: 9812 |
From: David Stevenson |
Date: 7/19/2014 |
| Subject: Re: SnapAmp Opto Inputs |
Thanks Russ.
I guess I'll do some experimenting.
David
On 7/19/2014 9:01 AM, 'Russ Larson'
rdlarson@... [DynoMotion] wrote:
No they need
to be in Series, end to end to double the resistance.
Russ Larson
Thanks Tom,
Okay, now if you electronic guys would look away
for a moment... would 2 resistors in parallel
double the value?
Best regards,
David.
On 7/18/2014 2:30 PM, Tom
Kerekes tk@...
[DynoMotion] wrote:
Higher
resistance would reduce the dissipated
power but provide less shunting. Use
the highest value that reliably allows
the opto to turn off.
for
12V and 500 ohms the power would be:
Hi
Tom,
I put a 1/2 watt
resister in and that
seemed to work, until
the machine sat with the
limit switch active for
a minute or so, and the
the resister started to
fry. Would a different
size help?
Thanks,
David.
On
6/26/2014 8:19 PM, Tom
Kerekes tk@...
[DynoMotion] wrote:
In
that case it
seems the
input is
always
active.
Possibly the
"switch" has
enough leakage
to turn on the
SnapAmp Opto
even though it
is supposedly
"open".
Actually now that I re-read the
spec the 2-wire
devices have a
rated load of
5~50mA. Maybe
that means they
need a minimum
load of 5ma?
Check the voltage across the
SnapAmp Opto
when the
"switch" of
open. If it is
1.5V or more it
may activate. I
think you
measured 10V in
an earlier post
which with a 12V
supply would
leave 2V across
the opto. But
I'm not sure
exactly what you
measured.
You might put a shunt resistance
across the
SnapAmp Opto of
~ 250ohms
(1watt) or
500ohms (1/2
watt) to reduce
the current that
goes through the
SnapAmp Opto.
Or use one of their 3 wire
devices. In
that case the
supply current
for the device
should not flow
through the
controlled
device.
Hi
Tom,
The pins,
cable and lamp
seem okay. I
noticed that
when I shut
down the power
supply the
inputs show
active and I
would have
expected the
opposite.
Thank you,
David.
On 6/25/2014 9:20
PM, Tom
Kerekes tk@...
[DynoMotion]
wrote:
Hmmm.
If there is
9.6V it should
be activated.
(Actually the
SnapAmp Inputs
go off when
active)
I
don't know.
Could you be
on the wrong
pins? Bad
cable? is the
"I'm Alive"
LED on SnapAmp
blinking?
Hi
Tom,
I send 12v to
the limit
switch and the
return wire to
opto pos, and
then the opto
neg to 12v
ground. The
voltage
measures 9.6v.
Thanks,
David.
On 6/25/2014 8:52
PM, Tom
Kerekes tk@...
[DynoMotion]
wrote:
How
are you wiring
it? Measure
the voltage
from Opto Plus
to Opto Neg
with a
voltmeter.
What do you
read?
Hi
Tom,
The limit
switch is from
Misumi and
here is a link
( I have the
EX4-F12
switches) http://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110302201260/
I am using a
separate 12V
power supply,
but when the
switches
activate, the
input state
doesn't
change.
Thank you,
David.
On 6/25/2014 4:20
PM, Tom
Kerekes tk@...
[DynoMotion]
wrote:
I
don't
understand
your
description of
a 12V 2-wire
switch. You
would need to
supply a spec.
You
can think of a
SnapAmp opto
input like a
+5V light bulb
(it is
actually an
LED) that you
must power to
turn on. So
for example if
you were to
take a 9V
battery and
connect the
+terminal to
the opto plus
and the -
terminal to
the opto neg
then the
digital IO
should
indicate on.
You
must have a
power supply
involved.
Just as you
can not light
a light bulb
with only a
switch. It
will work
using the
KFLOP +5V or
+12V supply
but that would
defeat the
opto isolation
and your limit
switch wiring
could
potentially
pick up noise
and induce it
into KFLOP.
Better to have
an isolated
supply.
(Message over 64 KB, truncated) |
|
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
